Carla Bragagnini (@carla.writes) shares her top ten must-do's in the Winterless North
I travelled to Northland on the “Bay & Cape” during wintertime and was blown away by the rich cultural and historical significance of the region – not to mention the stunning landscapes and nature! Here are the top highlights of my Kiwi Experience:
1. Chasing waterfalls in Whangarei
Just a couple of hours north of Auckland and after a quick bite in Warkworth, Whangārei, the northernmost city in New Zealand, was our first real stop of the day. We had close to an hour to get off the bus, stretch our legs and hike down to the Whangārei Falls. From the parking lot, it was a short walk to the top of the waterfall. Whangārei Falls, all 26 metres of it, drops over an ancient basalt lava flow formed over two million years ago (how amazing is that?). Often called “the most photogenic waterfalls in New Zealand,” the excessive amount of photos I snapped on my phone from all angles backs up the claim.
2. Walking among the giant Kauri trees
Kauri trees are native to New Zealand and grow in the warmest regions, including Northland, which makes it one of the best places to spot them. The region was once home to enormous forests, which spanned 1.2 million hectares. With lifespans beyond a thousand years, heights of fifty metres and widths of up to six metres, they are among the world's oldest, tallest and largest trees. Our Driver Guide Richie told us to look out for kauris in the forest leading up to Whangārei Falls. I took a few photos, which I showed him afterwards to help with identification but I didn't pass the test, as none of them were actually kauri. As we were leaving the falls, Richie pointed out a few younger versions of the tree, which I realised I'd seen on the hike. Turns out I'd been walking among these mighty giants, even if I didn't have the photos to prove it.
3. Visiting New Zealand's first capital - Russell
Myself and a few new Kiwi Experience friends took the ferry across from Paihia (15 minutes, $15 return), as per the recommendation of our local Driver Guide (thanks, Richie!). In Russell, we downed fish and chips at Hone's Garden and toured the grounds outside the Russell Museum, which has one of the last remaining whaling boats on display (Russell was the largest whaling town in the Pacific at one point). There is a beautiful stroll down a pedestrian path that takes you past the main town, Christ Church (the oldest church in New Zealand, whose construction was paid for by Charles Darwin), and the Duke of Marlborough, a resto-hotel with the first liquor license in the country! We opted to hike Flagstaff Hill, which saw political tensions escalate in the 1800s. But you'd never know it from the calm views over the harbour, rainbow and all (one of the perks of travelling in winter!).
4. Catching the sunrise in Paihia
Paihia-based Richie also provided plenty of notes for exploring Paihia town (from coastal walks to best cafes!) – it was like having our very own human Lonely Planet. Paihia is a vibrant seaside town to explore, there is a lively shopping street and brick-walled hidden alley, Paihia Lanes, filled with restaurants, bars and shops. During the day, Paihia is the perfect base for water-based activities, including snorkelling, fishing, kayaking, swimming with dolphins and sailing. During my visit in June, sunrise clocked in at 7:30am, which provided a little chance to “sleep in” and still catch the day's first rays (another wintertime benefit). From my accommodation at Centabay Lodge, it was a short walk past the wharf to Paihia Beach, which was a great spot to soak in the day ahead (and bonus – there was no one else there!). There is also a fantastic viewing platform just before the beach that feels like it's built specifically for serious sunrise-watchers like myself.
5. Visiting Waitangi, the birthplace of New Zealand
On the way to Paihia, Richie stopped the bus in Waitangi, which is connected by a bridge to Paihia. From a local golf course, we had an expansive view over the Bay of Islands. Waitangi is also known as the “birthplace of New Zealand,” as it's the place where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed between Māori chiefs and the British Crown. The Māori agreed to share power but not give up sovereignty, an important detail that seemed to get lost in translation and ultimately led to rising group tensions. The Waitangi Treaty Grounds is the most significant historical site in New Zealand. A visit includes a guided tour, entrance to the museum and heritage buildings, and a cultural performance.
6. Taking a boat trip to the Bay of Islands
No visit to Northland is complete without a boat trip through the Bay of Islands. The Bay of Islands, named by Captain James Cook, are a cluster of 144 islands that are easily accessible from Paihia. In the summer, it's a popular holiday destination, so it was great to be able to travel off-season and beat the crowds. We were treated to a warm, sunny day and shimmering turquoise waters that felt more summer-y than peak winter, a reminder of the region's nickname – “the winterless north.” Our boat trip took us past the Cape Brett lighthouse to “Hole in the Rock,” a rocky formation that allows the passage of boats like ours through it. The crew worked hard all day to spot dolphins on the way. We weren't so lucky, but we weren't deprived of all animal life. The boat docked at the sheep-centric Otehei Bay on Urupukapuka Island. After a lazy lunch, I burned some calories hiking up the hill – the views from the top were so postcard-worthy, I stayed too long and almost missed the boat back!
7. Reaching Cape Reinga, the northernmost tip of New Zealand
I strongly suggest tacking on the Cape Reinga day trip to your Kiwi Experience journey. But be prepared for an action-packed day, lasting from 7am to 6:30pm – it is not for the faint of heart! Our Driver Guide, nicknamed Wi, greeted us in his native Māori and provided entertaining commentary for several hours along the way. I can't imagine having done the trip without understanding the cultural and historical context that Wi so expertly shared. The 800-metre hike down to the Cape Reinga lighthouse was unpredictable (started with rain and finished with blue skies!) but memorable, and witnessing the Tasman Sea physically colliding with the Pacific Ocean was nothing short of magic. The lighthouse itself is incredibly picturesque with the vast bodies of water laid out behind it and the Three Kings Islands in the distance – it truly feels like you are standing at the edge of the world!
8. Getting up close and personal to Maori culture
When you look out the windows of the bus, you'll see rolling hills populated by an endless supply of sheep on one side and idyllic coastlines on the other. But getting a deeper understanding behind the unfiltered landscapes – that's where the Driver Guides come in! Wi, our Driver Guide on the Cape Reinga day trip was incredibly informative and funny. He sung us a beautiful Māori welcome song when we got on the bus and told us myths and stories along the way. Northland is home to a sizeable Māori population and it's believed it's where the first Māori inhabitants arrived in Aotearoa. Approaching Cape Reinga, one of the most spiritually significant Māori locations, Wi told us of Spirit Bay, where it is believed the souls of the deceased gather before travelling down the roots of a pōhutukawa tree to the underworld. Wi sang us an enchanting Māori song to honour departed loved ones and there was not a dry eye on the bus.
9. Driving on the beach at Ninety-Mile Beach
Our Driver Guide Wi told us it took him several weeks to perfect his driving style on Ninety-Mile Beach and after experiencing this beach edition of “Fast and Furious,” I believe him! It's amazing how he could manoeuvre the large vehicle so seamlessly (forwards and in reverse!) that at points, we forgot we were going ninety kilometres per hour on sand. Ninety-Mile Beach's never-ending strip of driveable beach is a registered highway, which means 4WDs and buses must stick to driving rules like signalling, driving speeds and giving the right of way... to fishermen, that is. It was such a bucket list-worthy experience that the entire bus couldn't stop giggling. As if the experience couldn't get any better, when we exited the beach, Wi pointed out a herd of galloping wild horses.
10. Going sandboarding on Ninety-Mile Beach
Normally, it’s possible to go sandboarding at Te Paki Stream Sand Dunes but Cyclone Gabrielle caused major devastation that unfortunately foiled that plan. Luckily for us, Wi presented other options to ensure we could get our adrenaline pumping either way. He took us to another nearby location on the beach, opened up a panel at the bottom of the bus, which revealed dozens of neatly-stacked boogie boards and led us up the back-up dunes. Wi was mid-sentence when he leapt up in the air and sped down the hill on a board, eliciting cheers from the unsuspecting crowd. From the bottom, he encouraged us to jump and we all just looked at each other, until one brave soul finally took the plunge. The rest of us soon followed like dominoes, and it was so much fun, we proceeded to go again and again. I felt like a little kid with the wind (and sand!) in my hair. Honestly, it’d been a long time since I’d laughed that hard, and with a bunch of new friends, no less. Just a word of advice – if you want to avoid sandy mouthfuls, refrain from screaming on the way down (you have been warned!).
